The monsoon rains seem to have started here in Ranong (which is a rainiest province in Thailand as it is), and this is changing the way I live. The leather belt in my closet has started growing mold. So do the dishes, if I don’t wash them for a couple days. Noon can feel like late evening when the clouds are thick, and the rains come at all times of the day. I have to time my daily runs during lulls in the torrent. My flip-flop sandals get slippery in a downpour, so I’ve taken to wearing my canvas Chuck Taylors when I’m out running errands. In short, the seasons are changing as usual here in Thailand, in their decidedly tropical way.

One thing that hasn’t changed with the rains, however, is my near-nightly ritual of eating Thai food at Khun Anan’s restaurant just down the street from where I live. Last night I had chicken with basil and peppers over rice, and a plate of garlic-fried squid. Fantastic. I was so taken with his gang ped (red curry) when I first moved here that I’ve written a short article about it, which appears as part of the global food feature in this month’s National Geographic Traveler. The gang ped is still great (and spicy) at Khun Anan’s –and I’ll probably go out and have some tonight. My umbrella is ready, just in case.