This morning, I went on my obligatory monthly visa run to Kawthaung, the small Burmese border town that lies about 20 minutes by boat from my temporary home in Ranong, Thailand. Ranong is where I come to hole up and get my writing done, so I always welcome this visa run, which takes me across the island-dotted mouth of the Pak Chan River, past trees laden with fruit bats and skies dotted with sea eagles. Kawthaung (known as Victoria Point in British colonial days) isn’t much to look at, but — as with all border towns — it’s a fascinating place. Though technically Burmese, Thai influence is strong, and one can see many other influences in the architecture and in the faces of the people: Chinese, Malay, Portuguese, Tamil, Karen, Mon, Moken. Some residents even have Japanese blood — the legacy of a brief World War II occupation. The name “Kawthaung” is itself a mongrelization: a play on the Thai koh song, or “two islands”.
Though the Thai-Burmese border here is largely an accident of colonial geography, I always like the feeling that comes when crossing the international boundary. It’s a feeling laced with newness and possibility — and this ongoing sensation is a big part of what makes travel so intoxicating.
On this particular visa run, I was joined in the boat by…
…an Italian man and an American couple. The Americans had just been to Malaysian Borneo, and they described it in such a way that I wanted to drop everything and go there. That is, until the Italian started describing his adventures in Sumatra. I did the math and realized that — by a combination of bus and ferry travel — I could be in Sumatra within a day. It seemed so tempting and so plausible. Such is the wicked charm of Southeast Asia, where so many fabulous horizons seem so near and so desirable. It’s not just a matter of proximity, either: Bangkok, eight hours to my north, is one of the cheapest air travel hubs in the world. Auckland, New Delhi, Paris, Tokyo or Los Angeles are just a few hundred dollars away. Sometimes I do the math and try to think of how many connections it would take to get me to the more isolated destinations that have always fascinated me: Ethiopia, Armenia, Madagascar, Transnistria, Antarctica. To ponder this too long is to risk driving myself crazy with wanderlust. It’s a weird feeling to look at a world map and realize that you could go almost anywhere, yet know that it’s impossible to go everywhere. Such is the joy and the pain of the freedom that comes with travel.
Since my whole raison d’etre in south Thailand is to sequester myself and get work done, I finished my visa run this morning, mentally re-allotted my Borneo and Sumatra travels into the (not-too-terribly-distant) future, and got back to the solitary task of writing and reading and researching.
But even now, surrounded by notes and books, the notion of possibility weighs on me. Just as looking at a world map can be an exercise in both the allure and limitation of what is possible, so can walking into a bookstore. What, after all, do you read when you’re interested in most everything? Ernest Hemingway’s The Sun Also Rises is on my list, since I’m going to Paris this summer. Robin Lane Fox’s biography of Alexander the Great is on the list — since if I can’t conquer the civilized world by age 32, I should at least read about someone who did. Without even mentioning the classics that languish on my to-read list, I hardly know where to start scratching my reading yen: Class, by Paul Fussell? Brown, by Richard Rodriguez? Video, by Meera Nair? What about No Sense of Place by Joshua Meyrowitz, The Ends of the Earth by Robert D. Kaplan, Fargo Rock City by Chuck Klosterman, Infinite Jest by David Foster Wallace, or The Death and Life of Great American Cities by Jane Jacobs? And, while these books are just the tip of the iceberg (which, as I write that, reminds me that I also want to read Iceberg Slim’s Pimp: The Story of My Life), I probably won’t be able to read them all this summer while still getting enough writing done to make a living.
So, resigned yet hopeful, I keep these books and destinations and possible futures on my list and get back to work, happy in the knowledge that — even if I could never do it all — there is so much out there for me to choose from.


May 11th, 2003 at 12:27 pm
Great entry Rolf…I often wonder about this side of you…what you want to do and where you want to go. Thanks for sharing that.
May 11th, 2003 at 4:56 pm
Cheers, Sean! This morning I head down to the islands of Phang-Nga Bay for a little magazine assignment. Only a three-day trip, but it’ll get me out of the house! After that, it’s back to work…
June 18th, 2003 at 3:41 pm
Eye of the Beholder
I read your take on the Burma border town, the people, wildlife and everything seemed bright and approachable… I then went over to the State Department and read the current Consular Information Sheet on Thailand. http://travel.state.gov/thailand.html They paint a very different and grim picture. Specifically Southern Thailand and the Burma border towns. Amazing. Couldn’t believe I was reading about the same place. I do realize the importance of these advisories, but it is an excellent example that one must just go and not plan too much. Experience the Globe, through your own eyes.
June 18th, 2003 at 7:09 pm
Aye. State Department Consular Information Sheets tend to pain a grim face on many places in the developing world. And there are problems in this part of the world (political repression, poverty, organized crime), but these problems are rarely a threat to the day-to-day traveler. There are things to be careful about — I wouldn’t go camping in a border area, for example, or get mixed up with smuggling — but your average experience in a place like this is inspiring and enjoyable. Same goes for destinations in the Middle East, South Asia, or wherever. If you use caution and common sense, most any part of the world can be amazing and enjoyable.